Wet soil can be a challenge for even the most experienced gardeners. Here are some tips for growing in wet soil and 15 perennial crops to try.
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My backyard gently slopes away from the house, which is a good thing for keeping the basement dry.
But when it rains, water rushes away from the house and pools up in certain low spots that became boggy. Whatever I planted there seemed to just limp along. So I started researching ways to manage this problem.
When I used the following tips for growing in wet soil and selecting the right crops, my garden was a lot more successful. Now, those wet areas are some of my favorites in the garden!
In this article:
- How to grow perennial crops in wet soil
- A permaculture approach to growing in wet soil
- 15 crops that grow in wet soil
- 5 FAQs about growing in wet soil
Growing in Wet Soil
Growing in saturated soil is a challenge because it can drown plant roots, which require oxygen to breathe. This can lead roots to rot, fungal diseases to develop, and ultimately, spell death for the plant.
Wet soil gardens aren’t wetlands. If you have an area with wet soil in mind for planting, the soil should drain 24-48 hours after a rain, similar to a rain garden.
If your growing area meets this qualification, take heart! By managing the growing area properly and planting the right crops, this challenging site can become a cherished and productive garden area.
Raised planting areas are a good idea, because they allow your wet-tolerant crops to access the water as well as oxygen for healthy roots and proper uptake of nutrients. Try planting berms on contour or raised beds.
In addition to preparing a successful planting area, there are plenty of edible crops to choose from.
Want to grow fruits, vegetables, and herbs in your front yard landscape without sacrificing curb appeal? Check out my mini guide, The Permaculture Inspired Edible Landscape.
A Permaculture Approach to Growing in Wet Soil
While wet soil presents challenges for many gardeners, permaculture offers a unique perspective and set of solutions. Permaculture design principles encourage us to work with nature rather than against it.
For example, observing how water moves through the landscape and where it naturally pools can help us turn excess water into an asset and decide where to plant water-loving crops.
Understanding the soil’s capacity to hold water can also inform our decisions about what to plant. This observational approach allows us to work with the land’s natural tendencies.
When selecting plants for wet areas, consider not just their water tolerance, but also their potential functions in the ecosystem. For example, some plants might also:
- Appeal to wildlife
- Fix nitrogen in the soil
- Attract beneficial insects
Choosing plants with multiple functions, such as fox grapes which provide food for humans and wildlife, can help create diverse, resilient systems that make the most of wet conditions.
15 Crops for Wet Soil
Now for the fun part: Planting your wet-soil garden and reaping a harvest!
In permaculture, we emphasize the importance of ‘right plant, right place’. This means selecting plants that are naturally adapted to the conditions of your site. For wet areas, this includes plants that can tolerate or even thrive in moist conditions.
The following crops may adapt to having temporary wet feet and may grow in those areas that become boggy directly after a rain. Just be sure that those areas drain soon afterwards and dry out between rains.
#1: Aronia Berry (Aronia melanocarpa, common name: black chokeberry)
Aronia berry has been dubbed a superfood for its high antioxidant content, even more than blueberries or elderberries.
Because they are a tart berry, they are most often frozen for use in smoothies, or made into preserves, liquors, or any other way you enjoy using tart berries. Aronia enjoys acidic soil. You can find Aronia Berry at Food Forest Nursery.
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-8
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 3-6 feet tall
Permaculture function: Can serve as part of a windbreak or hedgerow.
Wildlife: Birds enjoy the berries, but is deer resistant (protect when young).
Harvest window: Late summer through early fall.
Read more about growing aronia in my article All About Aronia: Grow Your Own Superfood Berries.
#2: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
A common garden crop, few people know that asparagus can tolerate temporary wet soil. Wild asparagus is often found growing in ditches.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-8
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: 3-5 feet tall
Permaculture function: Deep roots help break up clay soil over time.
Wildlife: Much like humans, deer enjoy the tasty spring shoots, but don’t bother the mature asparagus fronds.
Harvest window: February through July.
Here is the variety of asparagus that I like to grow.
#3: Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum trilobum)
Native to northern North America, highbush cranberry is not related to the more common cranberry sold in grocery stores (Vaccinium macrocarpon), although it resembles it in both appearance and flavor.
With an astringent taste, these berries soften when frozen then thawed, and are best enjoyed prepared in preserves. Substitute them for regular cranberry sauce!
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-7
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 6-12 feet tall; can be pruned
Permaculture function: Provides habitat for beneficial insects and birds.
Wildlife: Not particularly favored by wildlife, but birds and deer eat those left on the bush in late winter.
Harvest window: Late summer to early fall.
#4: Lowbush Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon, cranberry)
This is the typical cranberry found in grocery stores, and is commercially grown in artificial bogs. Requires acidic soil.
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-7
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: 4-10 inches tall
Permaculture function: Helps prevent soil erosion in wet areas.
Wildlife: Birds and other rodents who seek shelter in this low growing plant enjoy the berries. Pollinators appreciate the flowers.
Harvest window: Mid to late fall.
Try a ‘Pilgrim’ cranberry from Food Forest Nursery. Keep in mind that cranberries require cross pollination so you’ll want to plant at least two.
#5: American Red Currant (Ribes triste)
Although many of the popular red currant varieties (like ‘Red Lake’, which you can find at Food Forest Nursery) hail from Europe, the American red currant is native to eastern North America and is the most adaptable to wet conditions. The tart berries can be used like any other tart berry, which I’ve discussed in this article and this one. It is hard to find commercially, and the cultivars may substitute just fine. Try it and see!
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-8
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 2-3 feet tall
Permaculture function: Provides shelter for animals and flowers attract beneficial insects.
Wildlife: Since this plant is not widely cultivated for garden use, there is little documentation about wildlife. Some documentation suggests that birds and deer eat the berries, but probably not as a preferred food source.
Harvest window: May to July.
#6: Common Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis, elderberry)
The flowers and berries are a popular forage crop, native to eastern North America. The purple-black berries are high in antioxidants and are often used for making medicines to promote a strong immune system. They cannot be eaten raw. Rather, they are cooked before consuming. Elderberry shrubs, like this ‘Wyldewood’ elderberry from Food Forest Nursery, are also an excellent choice for the edible hedgerow.
Pollination: Self-fertile, but better yields with cross pollination with other varieties
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 6-12 feet tall
Permaculture function: Provides shelter for wildlife and the flowers provide nectar for pollinators and hummingbirds.
Wildlife: All manner of birds, rodents, and other small mammals cherish the fruit. Deer on the other hand browse the foliage, but in general, are not interested in the plant. Protect while young.
Harvest window: July through September.
#7: Fox Grape (Vitis labrusca)
The fox grape is native to eastern North America and is well known for its popular red ‘Concord’ grape, like this seedless variety from Food Forest Nursery, and the white ‘Niagara’ grape used for table grapes, juices, and jellies.
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: Left to their own volition, grapevines go on indefinitely. Grapes cultivated in the garden are usually grown on an arbor.
Permaculture function: Can provide shade for understory plants in summer.
Wildlife: Many birds and mammals enjoy the berries. Protect while young. Pollinators enjoy flowers.
Harvest window: Late summer to early fall.
#8: Mint (mentha, spp.)
Mint family plants are especially tolerant to areas with wet soil. Mint is versatile in the kitchen, too, and can be used with many dishes from savory to dessert, from fruits and ice cream, to meat-based entrees.
But watch out! It keeps running like Forrest Gump to take over your garden. It even defiantly grows through the drainage holes of a pot to root itself in the ground. That said, it can cover a barren area and reduce erosion.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 2-3 feet
Permaculture function: Vigorous producer of tea leaves and organic mulching material.
Wildlife: Because of their strong scent, mint leaves ar not enjoyed by wildlife. However, pollinators and lacewings enjoy the flowers.
Harvest window: All growing season. It dies back in winter. Keep flowers pruned for best mint flavor, or let the flowers bloom to attract pollinators.
#9: Persimmon (Diospyros, spp, Kaki or Japanese persimmon, American persimmon)
Persimmon is a tree fruit. Kaki or Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) is more common in the marketplace, but American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) is seeing a revival by those with an interest in conserving and appreciating native plant species. Eat when soft and ripe.
USDA Hardiness Zones: Kaki: 7-10, American: 5-9
Sun Exposure: full sun
Size: Kaki: 25-40 feet, American: 50-75
Permaculture function: Provides late-season food for wildlife, supporting biodiversity.
Wildlife: The fruit is prized by all manner of animals. It is also the host plant for the caterpillar of the luna moth.
Harvest window: Fall-early winter. Harvest when soft and ripe. American persimmons are usually harvested after a hard frost when they ripen quickly and fall to the ground, but to avoid bruising they can be picked when fully colored yet still firm, and allowed to ripen off the tree.
Can’t find persimmon trees at your local nursery? Food Forest Nursery carries a variety of both Kaki and American persimmon trees.
#10: Ramp (Allium tricoccum)
Ramps are in the onion family, and have a strong, garlicky flavor. They are native to eastern North America and grow wild in hardwood forests.
Pollination: self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8
Sun Exposure: Partial to full shade
Size: 6-10 inches
Permaculture function: Supports local biodiversity.
Harvest window: Ramps are a spring ephemeral and are harvested in the early spring before the trees above them leaf out. Harvest sustainably by harvesting only a single leaf from each plant so that the plants can come back each year. These ramp leaves are highly prized in culinary circles and can be used as you would chives, green onions, bunching onions, or garlic scapes.
#11: American Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus var. strigosus)
This North American native is more tolerant to wet soil than other varieties of raspberries. Try this ‘Carolina’ red raspberry variety from Food Forest Nursery—you’ll get lots of large, flavorful berries!
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-8
Sun Exposure: full sun to full shade
Size: 3-6 feet
Permaculture function: Provides habitat for beneficial insects.
Wildlife: Many birds and small mammals enjoy the berries, while deer and other herbivores browse the leaves.
Harvest window: The canes are typically ever-bearing, producing a crop mid-summer as well as in the fall.
#12: Rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum, garden rhubarb)
Rhubarb is a perennial herb known for its edible stalks. The large leaves—although poisonous—shade the soil and make a nice living mulch.
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 1-9
Sun Exposure: full to partial sun
Size: 3-5 feet
Permaculture function: Large leaves can be used for chop-and-drop mulch.
Wildlife: Not a known food source for wildlife.
Harvest window: Rhubarb is harvested in the spring when the stalks are 8-10 inches long. Leave at least two stalks per plant to keep plants growing from one year to the next. Do not harvest based on color.
#13: Shellbark Hickory (Carya laciniosa)
This large hardwood tree is typically found in bottomlands and floodplains. Although a slow-grower, it produces the largest and best-tasting hickory nut in its native North America.
Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9
Sun Exposure: full sun
Size: 75-100 feet
Permaculture function: Provides long-term food security and wildlife habitat.
Wildlife: Game birds and small mammals enjoy the nuts. Protect the trees while young.
Harvest window: Fall
You can find bareroot ‘Shellbark’ hickory tree seedlings at Food Forest Nursery.
#14: Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)
Strawberries are a common, delicious fruit. Strawberry isn’t as tolerant to wet soil as other plants listed here. The soil MUST drain within 24 hours.
Pollination: Mostly self-fertile but attract insect pollinators for better fruit set.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Sun Exposure: full sun
Size: 6-12 inches
Permaculture function: Helps suppress weeds.
Wildlife: Almost all birds and mammals enjoy strawberries as much as humans.
Harvest window: Strawberry harvests range from late spring to early summer for June-bearing varieties, and into fall for everbearing varieties.
I like to grow the variety ‘Seascape‘.
#15: Taro (Colocasia esculenta)
Taro is a tropical plant grown most often for its edible roots, while the leaves can be eaten like spinach. Both must be cooked well before eaten.
Pollination: self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 7-10
Sun Exposure: full sun to partial shade
Size: 4-5 feet
Permaculture function: Helps filter water.
Wildlife: Said to be deer and rabbit resistant, although this doesn’t mean it’s deer and rabbit proof.
Harvest window: Harvest the tubers before the first frost. The leaves can be harvested as soon as they open, but leave some on the plant so it can regrow.
5 FAQs About Growing Perennial Crops in Wet Soil
#1: What challenges do wet soils present to gardeners?
Wet soils can drown plant roots, cause root rot, and promote fungal diseases, which can ultimately kill plants if not managed properly.
#2: How can I improve drainage in areas with wet soil?
Consider planting berms on contour or raised beds, which allow wet-tolerant crops to access the water as well as oxygen for healthy roots and proper uptake of nutrients.
#3: How do I know if my soil drains well enough for planting?
The soil should drain within 24-48 hours after a rain. If water remains for longer periods, additional drainage solutions may be needed before planting.
#4: Can I grow fruit in wet soil?
Yes, fruits like persimmons, fox grapes, and strawberries can tolerate temporary wet conditions, but ensure the soil drains properly between rains.
#5: Are there any herbs that thrive in wet soil?
Mint is a great herb for wet soil conditions, but be aware that it can spread aggressively, so consider containing it in a pot or designated area.
Turning Wet Soil Problems into Opportunities with Permaculture
Although wet soil can present a challenge for gardeners, all hope is not lost. There are plenty of ways we can improve the soil, and plenty of crops to choose from.
By applying permaculture principles, we can shift our perspective on wet soil from a problem to an opportunity. Through observation, design, and selecting appropriate plants, we can create thriving, productive gardens that take advantage of wet areas. Remember, in permaculture, the problem is the solution—and wet soil is no exception.
What perennial crops have you grown successfully in wet soil?
READ NEXT:
Jacques Lebec says
This may explain my poor success with asparagus, more mulch and more water. I do have success with succulents, in the semi-arid region of Northern California.
Dan Sorensen says
Although I haven’t tried growing them in wet soil myself, I find that groundnuts, Apios americana, grows very well along the rivers in our area of Pennsylvania, areas which are often flooded for extended periods. I do grow them in my garden and find that they are a productive and tasty perennial substitute for potatoes. One caution however. I noticed that on an episode of Naked and Afraid, the contestants found some and ate them without cooking them. They both experienced vomiting as a result. I have always cooked mine and have yet to experience any ill effects.
Sarah says
Excellent guide. It not only helped me know what to plan in wet areas but also taught me about some new plant varieties that I hadn’t heard of before.
Amy says
I’m glad this was helpful for you. 🙂
Diana says
Do you have any suggestions for what to do if your planting area doesn’t drain within 24-48 hours? My dirt holds in water like a sponge. Puddles can’t drain away and it stays boggy.
Would raised beds help? Is there an option for filling raised beds that doesn’t cost hundreds of dollars worth of dirt?
Thanks!
Amy says
One option is to dig an outlet for the water so it can drain and continue on its course instead of getting stuck in your planting area. Another option is to create a pond or rain garden, allowing nature to do what it wants to do, and locate your planting area elsewhere. The third option is to sort of fight against the water and try to garden with raised beds. But to get your plant roots out of the water you’ll need deep beds, and lots of organic material to fill them.
Gayatri Melkote says
Creating a pond or rain garden would be the ecologically sound thing to do, however, razed beds can be filled pretty cheaply if one explores the possibility that the local sand and gravel business in town that may sell mulch or mushroom compost and deliver it for little cost or the local utility that might give away wood chips for free.
Matthew says
There is a version of raised beds called Hugelkulture. Basically what you do is fill the bottoms of the beds with old rotting logs, sticks and mulch. Then cover that with growing media; compost, potting soil, etc. Then plant your crop. As the bed get water the soil will drain but the logs and stuff underneath with hold some moisture. This help keep your soil moist but not soaking wet, and as the bottom layer of the bed break down it adds nutrients to the soil.
Casieopea says
Diana- we have made 2.5 ft tall raised beds – and filled 1/3 of the bed with brush and decomposing wood that is not valuable to burn. (A Mini Hugelkulture bed) and then added regular soil – then mixed in compost. not sure this will help – given you wrote this question 2years ago!
Stacy says
I had to do raised beds in my garden because I have a willow tree growing in my garden it’s so wet. We make the beds 4x8x1 and it takes 1 1/2 yards to fill them which is $45 a bed. I then top them each year with homemade compost. I plant my asparagus, strawberries, rhubarb, gooseberries, currants, annual vegetables and herbs in the raised beds.
Ed Kasal says
need imformation on planting pollinators in wet soil
William Sharek says
You didn’t mention the PAW PAW fruit. We planted our Paw Paws near the stream and in an area where the water run-off tends to settle. And the Paw Paw is a wonderful fruit similar to a mango.
Steven says
Yes! Our pawpaws love the wet, partially shaded edge of our property.
Barb says
Any ideas for a partly SHADY wet area?
Stacy says
Sweet Spire, Carolina Allspice, Summersweet, red lobelia(part shade), and snakehead fritillary.
Rosebud1920 says
Some of the plants listed here are not wet soil plants. They may like moisture but well drained moisture not truly wet soggy soil. Be careful to research whatever you plant – and keep in mind a native wild growing plant may be able to take more adverse conditions than a hybrid. For example wild asparagus will grow in wet ditches — but if you want a hybrid variety ie a cultivated type of asparagus for nice, fat, tasty healthy asparagus for the dinner – you need to make sure it’s got good drainage. Many plants like moisture but will rot, stayed covered in fungus, etc in wet anaerobic soil, particularly heavy wet clay. The other thing is sometimes you can get a moist plant to grow in a wet area for a short period of time, but it will die about 25 years it’s normal life span but if you can get it raised up a bit – you might have a bit more luck. Meaning plant it on a mound of healthy loam and let it send its roots to the wet if it wants more moisture. But give it a good size mound bit a 6” pot size. Sometimes I have bought a plant in say a 4”-6” pot, slowly moved it into larger pots until it’s in say a 24” container and then I will cut the button out of plastic pot and then dig a depression , put the pot in the depression, mulch around the pot and plant something to cover up the pot and just let it get established. When I can no long pull the pot up (just gently try, don’t jerk it up) – takes about a year – then I cut the pot off and sorta easy smush it down just a bit, use a mix of loam (native soil with about 35-40% leaf mold and Black Kow composted manure around it and after that it pretty much takes care of it’s self. But give it plenty of space, keep weed eaters (the bane of gardens) away from it. Weedeaters that nick stems or trunks end up girdling plants, and allowing diseases to the inside of the plant. Now you will need to water it while you are waiting for it to become established in the ground so it doesn’t dry out — the same as any other pot. This works well with plants with vigorous growers with active roots that like moisture but want good drainage. The roots can grow in the soil/compost/manure mix and also grow downwards as needed. This can work for trees etc. But if a plant (whether perennial, tree, vine, etc) is sensitive to wet and root diseases – it will be dead in a couple of years. It’s needed to be those labeled as “moist but well drained soil needed”.
Helen says
Fox grape? I have them. And they hate the wet garden.
Amy says
They can handle seasonally and temporarily wet spots, which is the focus of this article.